How Beautiful Is Rajasthan Frescoes?
The vast and exalted open air art gallery at Shekhawati, an area that lies roughly between Delhi, Jaipur and Bikaner, dates to the 18th century. Frescoes are the most important draw here and they decorate almost everything like royal properties, temples, schools and hundreds of havelis (mansions) of the seths, or taipans of the desert. The seths manage their lives by trading caravan-loads of spices, silks, and opium when they weren’t grinding the faces of the peasants. Featured in this frescoes are several awesomely conceived scenes from Hindu cosmology, as well as blow-by-blow accounts of the life in the times of local royalty. In delicately portrayed scenes of landscapes, dancing girls, and royal dalliances, the Raja is always the chap burdened with larges eyes, a wide-angle mustache and a turban the size of an airconditioner.
Access to Shekhawati is through Jaipur, or the “new” road that leads off Dharuhera from the Delhi-Jaipur highway. But don’t be bothered that before you get there, Shekhawati pioneers Aman Nath and Franciss Wacziarg will intercept you with their imaginative properties: The Neemrana Fort Palace. Neemrana, a painstakingly reconstructed medieval fortress, has achieved cult status among visitors to Rajasthan. Sprawling majestically over 25 acres on a concealed plateau in the Aravalli ranges, Neemrana offers intimate terraces with beautiful views, quirky corridors and staircases, traditional entertainment, and Rajasthani –and yes, French– cuisine.
If you don’t know what to do in the Rajasthan, somebody will get you at the foothills of the Himalayas, at the Ramgarh Bungalows, on the Ganges at the Glasshouse on the ganges, yea, even in Kuchesar at the Mud Fort about two hours out of Delhi.
In Rajasthan there is a dense concentration of frescoes around Navalgarh where Roop Niwas Palace offers its hospitality in a curious mix of European and Rajput architectural styles. Down the road in Mukandgarh there was a spate of building in the 1860s and the locals claim that their havelis have the finest frescoes bar none.
Just before entering Jaipur, picturesque Samode Palace offers a beautiful accommodation in breathtaking surroundings. Apart of the fact that most of the building is an outstanding Hall Of Mirrors, the large Audience Hall is beautifully painted by hand from floor to the ceiling. Of course there is much more to Rajasthan than pretty pictures.
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January 31, 2012
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Posted by Jam Man
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